One of the delights of living in London is the sheer number of historical pubs and buildings sprinkled throughout the city. Whether you are in the East End, engaged in a spot of shopping near Oxford Circus, or taking a walk on Hampstead Heath you can be assured that there will always be a pub within easy reach. And with real ale breweries still standing tall against the tyranny of fizzy lager and alcopops, there has never been a better time to sample the delights of Ye Olde London.
But with so many establishments going for that ‘authentic’ look, how can one distinguish the genuine from the imposters? With this small guide, that’s how. Of course, there are too many good old fashioned ale houses to possibly mention, so here is a shortlist of my favorites in no particular order. All of these alehouses can be visited in a single day and all are in a stone's throw of Fleet Street, and the Law Courts. If the journalists have moved on, the lawyers are still there. But I’ll try to keep the history lessons to a minimum.
The Black Friar
The Friar is a most peculiar tall wedge-shaped oddity, largely famous for the statue of a laughing monk that hangs above the main door. This delightfully bizarre Victorian building, built upon the site of a 13th century Dominican priory is host to an even more elaborate interior, decked out with illustrations and bronze reliefs of monks, and brilliant stained glass.
(Mon-Sat 11.30-23.00, Sun 12-22.30, nearest tube Blackfriars)
Old Cheshire Cheese
Entering the Old Cheshire Cheese is like walking through the wardrobe into Narnia. Best avoided by those suffering from claustrophobia, or the freakishly tall, it is easy to get lost in this dimly lit, low level maze of various rooms and restaurants. A cozy open fire greets visitors into a room that has been host to the likes of Charles Dickens and Samuel Johnson.
(Mon-Sat 11.30-23.00, Sun, 12-15.00, Wine Office Court near Fleet Street, nearest tube Blackfriars)
Seven Stars
One of the few buildings on this list to have survived the Great Fire of London, the Seven Stars is a surreal, narrow little bar, usually packed with lawyers and the likes. The meals, though relatively pricey, are as good and plentiful as pub food can possibly get. Rather cramped, but all the more atmospheric for it, the pub is smothered in antiquities and old artwork. The Seven Stars most unusual regular is Tom Paine, a large black cat in a white ruffled collar who sits atop the bar like he owns the joint. I wouldn’t mess with him.
(Mon-Sat 11.00-23.00, Carey Street nr Lincoln’s inn fields nearest tube Holborn)
Ye Olde Mitre
Discreetly tucked away in a small alley just off Ely Place, this Elizabethan alehouse has an old-world feel like no other, with both the exterior and exterior of the pub left mostly intact. The bar staff, decked in traditional attire, bow ties and aprons are the friendliest around. Despite its location and size, the Mitre does get very busy, so expect to stand. Men, be prepared to queue for the single toilet cubicle outside, though there is a woman’s restroom inside.
(Mon-Fri 11.00-23.00, Ely Court, Ely Place, nearest tube Chancery Lane)
Cittie of York
The Cittie was demolished and rebuilt in 1890 though parts of the original building still remain, and the cellar has been converted into a quirky, if somewhat white, downstairs bar. A good place for a quick lunch, there is a series of triangular coal fires that keep it nice and cozy during the winter. Some find the interior a little too standardized and manufactured. Usually full of office workers during the day and early evening.
(Mon-Sat 11.00-23.00, 22 High Holborn, nearest tube Chancery Lane)
Princess Louise
The interior of the Princess Louise, unlike many of its competitors, has been left pretty much intact from a, then modern, refurbishment back in 1891. Richly furnished in Victorian glasswork and ornate plasterwork and tiling, this bar is understandably one of the most popular historical pubs in London, and appeals to a very mixed crowd.
(Mon-Fri 11.00-23.00, Sat 12.00-23.00, 208-9 High Holborn nearest tube Holborn)
Punch Tavern
As much a restaurant as a pub, this recently refurbished bar may seem a little too modern for some tastes. A good place to stop off at for some decent quality food at a reasonable price. Situated along Fleet Street, the Punch is an easy find, and can get very busy.
(Mon-Fri 11.30-23.00, Sat 11.30-18.00, Sun 12-15.00&19.00-22.30, 99 Fleet Street, nearest tube Blackfriars)
Salisbury
The Salisbury’s lavish light fittings and etched glass interior really come to life when lit up in the evening, as does the pub itself which is bustling from the late afternoon onwards. During the day it is more of a quiet restaurant. Filled with nymphs and cherubs, this is one of the better traditional style Soho bars.
(Mon-Sat 11.00-22.30, Sun 12.00-23.00, 90 St Martins Lane, nearest tube Leicester Square)
Dog & Duck
A very small little Soho pub, the Dog & Duck attracts big street crowds during the warmer seasons. Covered wall to wall in original Victorian tiles and mirrors the interior is a sight to see, if you manage to squeeze in that far.
(Mon-Fri 12.00-23.00, Sat 18.00-23.00, Sun 19.00-22.30, Frith St/ Bateman Street, nearest tube Tottenham Court Rd)
Lamb & Flag
Just off from Covent Garden, the Lamb & Flag is a popular pub and lunchtime restaurant. Has a slightly standardized feel to it and does tend to pull in the tourists due to its location, but is slightly more spacious than many other historical alehouses. Nicely tucked away from the tourist ridden Covent Gardens, the Lamb & Flag is a good place for a breather.
(Mon-Thurs11.00-23.00, Fri-Sat 11.00-22.45, Sun 12.00-22.30, 33 Rose St, nearest tube Covent Garden)
Argyll Arms
This Victorian pub is still divided into three sections, still unchanged from the days of class separation, and is one of the few places to have kept such an interior intact. These carved wooden partitions, with decorative interior windows are indeed stunning, but can make the place seemed cramped during its busy hours, which is pretty much all day long.
(Mon-Sat 11.00-23.00, Sun 12.00-21.30, 18 Argyle St, nearest tube Oxford Circus)