Royal Leamington Spa is an exceptionally pretty and well-persevered town nestled in the heart of England. In close distance of Warwick, Stratford and Birmingham, Leamington, like these neighbouring attractions, is renowned by locals as something of a mini-London with a clutch of over priced restaurants and bars. However, for the discerning visitor Leamington certainly possesses several charms which can be enjoyed at little or no cost.

Leamington Spa began its growth following the discovery of its spa water springs in the 18th Century, lending the town its royal title. Leamington’s Pump Rooms are no longer open for visitors wishing to cure aliments with a healing bathe but the site does now function as a culture and heritage centre which is open to visitors free of charge. The centre includes an art gallery, the Assembly Rooms, a museum, library, tourist information centre and a tearoom in which I enjoyed a very fine cream tea. The museum itself traces the historic uses of the pump rooms; there is also an opportunity to sample the spa water though this is only perhaps recommended to the extremely brave!

Leamington’s parks

Just opposite the pump rooms site are the Grade II listed Jephson Gardens. The park has recently had some 4 millions pounds spent on restoration and the area now includes a heated indoor ‘sensory garden,’ and a restaurant that looks out on to the river. The park is, naturally, entirely free for visitors and is perhaps best enjoyed as an exceptional pretty area in which to have a leisurely picnic or a game of football. Certainly I have done this on numerous occasions as the park is nicely secluded and save a few ducks and swans it’s perfectly possible to spend an entire afternoon with a book untroubled by the world! It has also been the scene of a handful of romantic wine and cheese-cake picnics. The uncontrollable variable is, of course, the weather but the ‘sensory garden’ – a heated indoor collection of tropical plants – is alluringly warm all year round.

Boating

With prices starting at a fiver the Leam Boat Centre offers punters the chance to hire out the vessel of their choice and take to the river from which the town takes its name, the River Leam. My vessel of choice was a rowing boat and my partner greatly accepted this as an opportunity to demonstrate his ample rowing prowess (this involving him navigating us around passing canoes and through slender tunnels.) My own attempts were somewhat less successful and we ended up briefly tangling with the overhanging branches of one particularly sprawling tree. This did not spoil the fun however, as it was enough that the weather had held out and I got to lie back in the boat and observe a passing family of ducks. Whatever your skill level the chance to head out on to the river represents an unusual and enjoyable afternoon’s entertainment.

A Bite to Eat

Leamington boasts a higher than average crop of restaurants. Many, though priced slightly out of the five pound range offer exceptional value for those willing to splash out, of note are the Seasons and Basement Restaurant, both of which offer a set menu at discounted prices on Tuesday and Sunday through Thursday respectively. However, if a low priced bite is what you are after then there a few options to be found, including the regular fare, McDonalds and Pizza Hut, though my pick of the bunch would be Benjamin Satchwell’s the local Wetherspoon’s offering typical low-cost simple but tasty pub food and cheap alcohol in comfortable and relaxed surroundings. Frequently busy and if smoky pubs are not your thing then there’s always Boots or Marks and Spencer’s for a sandwich with plenty of parks and benches to enjoy your food if necessary. Leamington also offers a pretty comprehensive shopping experience (try the Royal Priors shopping arcade) but, of course, this is only free or under a fiver if you refrain from buying anything!

The Arts

The Warwick Arts Centre is not actually in Leamington, instead it is part of local Warwick Universities campus and is the largest Arts Centre in the UK outside of London; it can be reached via a short U1 bus ride (look for the pink buses!) The Art Centre offers a varied program of professional and student-led plays, films, comedy, music and dance. Prices vary and tickets for well-known comedians or musicians can be as expensive as 20 or so pounds, however there are bargains to be had. I have greatly enjoyed the student plays I have seen at this venue, such as the animal themed musical ‘Honk’ and performances by the University’s Big Band, all of which came in at a straight five pounds. The Arts Centre also offers discounted tickets if bought on the day of performance, though sadly this offer is only open to students and the big name events are likely to sell out some weeks in advance. Still worth a visit if only for the University’s free-admission art collection the ‘Mead Gallery’ which is located on the upper floor of the Arts Centre.