Up Market - A brief guide to London's market life

by   Carl Doherty

 

 

London’s market culture is currently the trendy shopper’s smug little secret. There’s that certain sense of mystery, wandering past cluttered stalls and not knowing whether you’ll find trash or treasure. This is the real London, rich in the history and culture of a bygone age. Recently, films like Bridget Jones’ Diary and Notting Hill have revived the interest in London’s market life, pulling in tourists from both here and overseas, and this historical side of the capital is far from dead. Armed with but an all-day railcard and an A-Z, I set off to see what delights the capital’s markets have to offer the more curious consumer.    

Portobello Market

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Portobello Market is by far London’s most culturally eclectic experience, situated in the ever-fashionable Notting Hill. The diversity of the stalls and shops that line Portobello Road is unrivalled, and the market is a collector’s paradise, second-hand book stores and antiques shops on every corner. You’re never far from the sound of kettle drums, the smell of Eastern spices or some of the craziest collectables and remnants of the sixties you are ever likely to find. There is simply too much here to list. Be warned though, the area is far from cheap, and you are unlikely to find any bargains. Saturday is the day to visit Portobello, though many of the stalls are still active throughout the week. A choice place to escape from the central London panic, spend long enough in Portobello and you’ll forget when and where you are.

(Monday to Saturday 8am -5pm) Nearest station: Notting Hill Gate)

 Borough Market 

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The best place for food in London, bar none, and a popular filming site for many a TV chef, Borough is always colourful, lively and extremely busy. Located directly under London Bridge, this market hails from medieval times. Visit the organic market on either a Friday or a Saturday for a selection of exotic delis, preserves, breads, and cheeses the size of barrels. A quick word of warning – do not pass Borough on an empty stomach, as the smell of the barbeque stalls alone will be more than your stomach can possibly resist.

(Borough High Street, Friday 12noon to 6 pm., Saturday 9am to 4pm, Nearest station: London Bridge)

Spitalfields

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Poor Spitalfields is in a sorry state. This indoor market is currently suffering from development work, and is slowly being transformed into a dispassionate shopping mall. The area is still worth a visit though, and the excellent food court is especially busy on a weekday afternoon, when the nearby office workers come to feast on some more unusual dishes from Indonesian, Thai and Hungarian selections to name but a few. The few interesting and varied stalls on display show that the area still has some life in it. East End developers take note; change isn’t always a good thing.

(Commercial Street, Monday to Friday 11am -3.30pm, Sunday 10am --3pm, Nearest station: Liverpool Street)

 Camden Market

This area layered in decades of punk and youth culture is slowly becoming stale, with many shops and stalls selling generic goods or just complete tat. Don’t let the mainstream crowds put you off though, as there is still a multitude of great record shops, and alternative fashion. The Camden Lock Market is the most interesting area, full of unusual antiques and vintage clothing and beautiful wood sculptures. There is always somewhere exciting to relax and eat in Camden, essentially a dozen smaller markets merged into one larger one. After a few hours you’ll need to escape the masses though, and feel the need to escape to Regents Park or take a stroll alongside the canals. Camden still has an atmosphere all of its own, it just takes a little exploration to find that certain something.

(Camden Lock Place, Saturday and Sunday 10am -6pm, Nearest station: Camden Town)

Camden Passage, located in the Islington Green area is a half-mile of stalls and small shops selling the usual expensive ‘antiques’, though each Thursday there is a great book fair.

(Camden Passage, Wednesday 7am-2pm, Thursday 7am-4pm, Saturday 8am-4pm, Nearest station: Angel)

Covent Garden

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Now considered a bit of a tourist trap, and the quality of the goods sold has gradually fallen into the category of tat over the last decade. This popular area is brimming with history, vibrant street entertainers and some interesting novelty shops and is open 7 days a week till late. The indoor Apple Market, a row of arts & crafts stools is a great place to pick up a handmade gift. The surrounding area is cram-packed with museums, and historical attractions.

(Monday to Sunday 1pm-7pm Nearest station: Covent Garden)

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Your stereotypical East End market, and has been going for over 400 years. The Lane really has very little to offer than the routine cheap clothes, crockery and mobile phone cases that we unfortunately associate with the East End, and is probably best avoided.

(Middlesex Street, Monday to Friday 10am -2.30pm, Sunday 9am -2pm, Nearest station: Liverpool Sreet)

Leadenhall Lane.

Still classed as a market, but don’t ask me why, though the area has a great selection of fresh food shops, cafes and bars. The splendid Victorian architecture alone is worth a visit and the area is as good a choice as any to go to for luxury seafood, cheeses, meat and poultry, and designer clothing.

(Whittington Avenue, Monday to Friday 7am-4pm, Nearest station: Liverpool Street)

Gray’s Antiques Market

An indoor market specialising in expensive antiques. A good place to look for quality jewellery, watches and even furniture, Gray’s is probably out of the price range of the casual buyer, but is well respected and the way to go for quality gifts or perhaps a bit of window shopping.

(38 Davies Street, Monday to Friday 10am-6pm, Nearest station: Bond Street)

Berwick Street Market.

This row of cheap fruit and veg stores located in central Soho has little to offer, but as with many historical market districts the surrounding shops have developed that vibrant market feel to them. Berwick Street itself has an excellent selection of second-hand record stores, within which many a rarity can be found.

(Monday to Saturday 9-5, Nearest station: Piccadilly Circus)

Shepherd Bush Market

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Not too far out of the way of the casual shopper, and has a very ethnic feel to it, with many stalls selling Asian fabrics and foodstuffs, and some very interesting cafes selling falafels in more varieties than one could possibly imagine.

(Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday, Saturday 8.30am to 6pm, Sunday 8.30am to 3pm, Nearest station: Shepherd's Bush)



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Email this article to a friend Written by Carl Doherty  13/02/2006